Looking for fun dining with friends, Jegunda
recommended we try The Pearl. A Cameron Mitchell restaurant. He’s
got a pile of them. I dined at two different ones, years ago in
Pittsburgh and remember them fondly. For some reason, we have not
tried others. Well, we are in Cbus, we have a trusted
recommendation, adventurous friends, and the waddle is finally
subsiding from the many dogs at Dirty
Franks. To The Pearl we go. The restaurant is super trendy…and
super relaxed. The staff are all sharp and the diners are mostly in
old Buckeyes gear and shorts.
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We are shown to our seats, past the oyster bar and find a busy restaurant humming with excitement. Our server's name was Jordan. I want to make a special point of this. We are at nearly 500 restaurant experiences to date. We may be a little jaded. The Pearl shook us from our standard expectations. Two bold statements follow: 1: The food is some thing I would expect from the New American Genius Charlie Palmer. 2: The service is akin to the late and great Charlie Trotter.
There. Take that. Jordan and the rest of the
team, including the sous chef we spoke with were extraordinary. Fun.
Effortlessly efficient. Incredibly generous. Nearly faultless, but
quick and enthusiastic in recovery. It was a wonder to watch and
experience. What a great night. |
Jordan informed us of their “No Risk” policy. He encouraged us to order outside of our comfort zone (not a problem) but stressed the restaurant's commitment to diners’ happiness, proven by their guarantee to find something you would love. We loved it all.
We ordered two snacks and two appetizers. Those are different? The
snacks were devils on horseback and crispy fried cheese curds. The
devils on horseback were good, stuffed date, wrapped in bacon,
theirs are topped with a mignonette of some kinds and were tasty. I
would still stay Fahrenheit and
Green House Tavern did them better, but
they were really good. If the theory was the snacks differ from the
appetizers in size, the curds were the exception proving the rule. A
pile of battered and fried cheesy lumps were served with a cup of
deep and rich gravy. Poutine without the fries. We made short work
of them. |
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P.S. Sorry the pix are so yellow. Yellow florescent lights right over our table. Trust me, the chow looked way better to the naked eye. The appetizers included a thick but ungloopy clam chowder with oyster crackers and a chorizo dust. Rich, clamy, great vegetable notes, delicious. The last of the four was probably my favorite. The Jalapeño Corn Spoon Bread with whipped butter and local honey was sublime. Not too sweet, not too spicy. There was just enough honey to bring life to the spread of butter. The corn bread was full of texture and unsweetened (except for naturally) corn and they had treated the peppers to emphasize the fruity aspects of the jalapeno and kept just a hint of spice.
An excellent adaptation of a classic. |
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Wow! |
With Extra Wow On The Side |
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The first entrée bite I had was a piece of fish from the Great Lakes Fish n Chips with Malt Vinegar Fries. It was also the something that would be a continuing theme. Exceptional seasoning. The fish was fresh, piping hot and delicious, but the crust was the star. Bright and lively, perfect saltiness and then dusted with big irregular crystals of finishing salt which exploded between your teeth. Not in a salty kind of way, but drawing out the other flavors in the fish and batter. The fries were perfect. Thin crisp crust as evidence of a second or third frying in screaming hot oil; with a fluffy and tatery interior from a more patient initial dunk. The slaw was savory and rich. It seems the Pearl only gets sweet when it’s called for. I’m a fan. All fish batter should bear some semblance to this dish.
I ordered the shrimp and grits. Grits, gouda cheese grits. Hit me.
Some of the shrimp had carried over to just rubbery but they were
stacked on top of poblano peppers and a sick (good way) short rib
kielbasa. Nice pepper, oozing fatty goodness, succulent glory. Add
the well-seasoned shrimp, rich grits, add 20 degrees and 40%
humidity and a cup of sweet tea you might be on the bayou. A classy
part of the bayou.
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Savory Shrimp & Grits |
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The braised short rib fell apart like Steph watching a schlocky
movie. If you pressed it with your fork it shuddered and devolved
into a wet delicious mess. Set atop beautiful horseradish mash and
topped with glazed root vegetable and a darkly wonderful ale
reduction, the whole dish is comfort food on illegal steroids from a
1980’s Eastern Block country you’ve never heard of, makes your heart
race but warms your soul. |
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Serious Comfort Food |
And Large Gobblets Of Comfort Juice. Large & Incredible Moscow Mule |
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Great Chicken & Doubters Beware |
Waffles Are In Trouble |
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I tried the greens. They were good. I don’t think anyone else took a bite. We were getting stuffed anyways. Jordan noticed the uneaten veg and insisted we try the mashed potatoes. We didn’t ask…he noticed…he insisted…he delivered. We have had the world renowned mash from Joel Robuchon. Didn’t care for them. All butter. No potato. One of my favorite dishes of all time are the mash from our first Top Secret location. These crushed Robuchon and approached the latter. Perfectly creamy, smooth, milled balance of starchy root and sweet butter. One of our companions made me jealous when he said “I’m going for some potato on potato action” and proceeded to dip a beautiful fry into the glorious mash. I was surprised a vortex didn’t open to another time. Thanks again, Jordan. Well, there’s another thanks coming. When we first sat, we asked about the pies. Jordan was excited about them. It was contagious. Barely able to breath, we contemplated pie at the end of the meal. Jordan joked, “he’ll buy us two and we can buy the other two and have all four”. Go the full monty. Have all they have to give. Surely it was a joke, no server would pick up half of their table's dessert. Well, the joke was on us. He picked up all four.
There was a key lime margarita cheesecake round. Nice flavor, but
whatever it was set with made the consistency less than appealing.
There was a butterscotch pie which had upsides and downsides. A
crust akin to layers of crispy phyllo dough was loaded with a layer
of butterscotch, one of chocolate and whipped cream. The chocolate
outweighed the butterscotch. It was delicious but there wasn’t much
in the way of butterscotch. |
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The Key Lime Was Alright |
As Was The Butterscotch |
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Thin But Loaded Brown Sugar Butter Pie |
Awesome Cobbler |
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There was a brown sugar butter pie, described to us as a pecan pie,
sans pecans. It was a good description. Sticky and rich and sweet,
pie is good. Even without nuts. Thinking about it, it might be
better with the nuts but I wouldn’t turn it down for the lack of
them. The last arrived with a candle burning in the center. Whose
birthday is it? Jordan told us it was to commemorate our first visit
to the Pearl. Cast iron held a wonderful apple blackberry cobbler
topped with an expertly seasoned topping. I could barely walk out
the door. If you’ve ever wanted to put on a Tshirt and cutoffs to be
treated like royalty. Fat, overstuffed royalty. Try The Pearl. |
Ratings | |||||||
Food |
Service |
Ambiance |
What's Best |
What's Worst |
Overall |
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A | A+ | A | A+ | N/A | A | ||
Much |