Blue Canyon Restaurant
 Cleveland, Ohio (Twinsburg)     Date of Visit  07/09/11         http://www.bluecanyonrestaurant.com

This is not the first time I have been conflicted about a restaurant. I had a really good time at the Blue Canyon in Twinsburg. The more I think about it the more I believe that my fondness has more to do with our companions than the restaurant…don’t get me wrong…there were some outstanding things on the plates. It just seems that on the whole, it might not live up to expectations. The building sits atop a hill and is really immense. There seem to be new rooms branching off in every direction and each one is filled with people happily noshing away. The building has a definitive western motif with rough hewn wood, substantial square beams and antlers on most fixtures including the front doors. The only problem is you feel like you are actually sitting at the table next to you, everything feels very pressed-in and way too close.
 

Assortment of Warm Rolls
 

Along with a bottle of very dusky and grapey Pinot we ordered a trio of appetizers. Prior to the appetizers we were delivered three versions of warm rolls that were served with a very unique butter replacement. You might think oil and garlic or pepper but no. This little dollop was a mix of pesto, cream cheese and white beans. I saw the faces when it hit the table, not sounding all that appetizing. None remained on the table once everyone had a taste though…different, exactly what I was hoping for. The daily special which was termed Dinosaur Bones which were Kobe beef ribs, the lobster-crawfish-tomato bisque, and the cast iron cheese bake. We did well with the apps.
 

I told you there were some really good things on the plates. The ribs were actually pretty stringy…I expect that’s going to happen so close to the bone but you really miss the lusciousness in the meat that Kobe promises. What really made the dish was something that would confound me throughout the evening. The place focuses on American classics with a twist. The twist on the ribs was the sauce. Thick rich and with a serious twang that was reminiscent of tamarind, it was unique and awesome. I only wish the awesome was consistent. The bisque was a cut above the ribs since it didn’t have the texture problem and featured another twist in spice that lent a darker flavor profile to a rich soup that worked very well. The killer of the three though had to be the cheese bake. A simple mix of Asiago, Fontina and Goatcheese melted in a cast iron skillet and served with crispy rounds of bread. Fatty, drippy, stringy, salty awesome with a nice crunch. One of our Phd’d companions described it as a genius way to make $12. I agree. It’s way worth the $ as the three cheeses combine in a pleasing harmonious tune that is everything you want cheese to be.
 

The  entrees arrived and this is where we started to see more consistent flaws. We ordered three reddish meat dishes in which the meats were almost perfectly prepared. The starches were fine but really lacked depth and imagination for a place that commands these kinds of prices. The whipped taters were standard. The veg du jour was a green bean with sundried tomatoes. The tomatoes were a really nice addition but the beans had barely seen any heat at all and were like eating them out of a  bag at the farmers market. The last thing I have an interest in is baby food that started its life as green beans but these went 180° in the other direction. If green has a flavor it is these beans. The medallions of beef were perfectly rare (as ordered) and tender. The beef shortribs were stupendously done. Tender and scrumptious in a way that only braising can accomplish. I ordered the daily game which turned out to be elk. These enormous critters used to constantly give me threatening looks while I was cooking at the Grand Canyon’s South Rim and one punched holes in the passenger door of one of my line cooks. Vengeance is mine! I have never tried elk before and found it to be something I would look for again. A lighter touch of gaminess than lamb and done to a perfect mid rare I knew those enormous furry beasts smelled delicious in Arizona. I was right. Steph ordered the lobster mac and cheese and this is where things went awry instead of simply missing the mark. The twist in seasoning in this cast iron skillet ended up damaging the dish instead of elevating it. Murky color/murky flavor that I honestly wish had completely masked the flavor of the lobster. But it could not, and this was the real disaster. The lobster emanated a “fishy” taste which screams out NOT FRESH!!! which contaminated the pasta, the cheese, the spinach, and the panko topping in the skillet. Seriously disappointing.
 

We had no interest in ordering desserts until the dessert menus arrived. It just sounded too good, even though we were all stuffed between the apps and passing entrée plates. Of the options we selected the HoHo and the summer berry cobbler. Honestly, the menu sounds significantly better than what shows up at the table. Our Dr. Cheese expert from earlier reported that he could have bought the hoho at Walmart and it would have been just as good. It also arrived with a crème anglaise sauce that was darker than any I have ever seen which failed to impress. A little better was the cobbler which was an oatey, icecreamy, skillet, but again was far from the best I have partaken in. The best way to sum up The Blue Canyon Restaurant for me…It is a great building. It has some exemplary offerings. But for the number on the check at the end of the night…there are numerous places that will voraciously attend to every detail to ensure your satisfaction. They haven’t quite managed that at the Blue Canyon.